Light nose but compact and dense - more so than the Rangen somehow. Smooth as satin with an attractively savoury finish despite its residual sugar level of more than 26 g/l. Real tension to this wine which could be served with rich savoury game dishes, I would have thought. A really explosive mouthful of ripe fruit but no heaviness. More than a hint of smokiness and the merest hint of bitterness on the finish.
Jancis Robinson, November 2008