Barolo Riserva 2004
Borgogno's 2004 Barolo Riserva emerges from the glass with a host of tobacco, smoke, game, licorice and incense. The firm tannins are very much old school, but at the same time, the wine's mid-weight structure is a bit of a departure from the bombastic wines of the past. With air, the 2004 can be enjoyed today, but readers should expect a fairly burly style of Barolo with slightly oxidative notes that have begun to creep in.
Antonio Galloni, May 2015
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