Monica Larner, June 2024

HAMILTON RUSSELL VINEYARDS
Pinot Noir 2023
- 93 points -

This wine comes from a site with iron-rich soils, resulting in structure and savory aromas. Made with Dijon clones (113, 115, 667 and 777), the Hamilton Russell Vineyards 2023 Hemel-En-Aarde Valley Pinot Noir has dark fruit (blackcurrant), grilled rosemary and a ferrous note of rusty nail. Clones with bigger clusters are used because the site tends to produce small bunches naturally. Anywhere from 10% to 15% whole-cluster fruit is used, depending on vintage. The wine undergoes a wild fermentation, and if the winemaking team does inoculate, they use yeast from the property. Cap management has changed over the years from twice daily punch-downs to a gentle approach resembling a tea infusion, with wine poured over the cap. There is a heavier note to this wine that is specific to this site and builds a robust fruit profile.