12.5% alcohol. Naturally made, this is quite special. It’s pure and focused, with an aroma of sweet herbs and cherries, and a bit of spice. In the mouth, there’s some silkiness to the texture, but also a lovely perimeter-edge of fine spices and dried herbs, with some grainy structure. Finesse, elegance and purpose here, capturing the exciting side of Gamay, with its elegance but also some wildness, although there’s no hint of a fault here.

Jamie Goode, April 2020