Chablis Mont Milieu 1er cru
2023
A very youthful Mont de Milieu. Winemaker Olivier Bailly noted that if you want to drink this young, make sure it is decanted for at least an hour. Greenish tint in the glass, aromas of white peach and pear. A premier cru cut with vibrant acidity, finishing with some mineral and saline notes. They own 3ha here, ranging from the bottom to the top of the Mont de Milieu slope. Has a very bright future.
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This Mont de Milieu is an arresting wine on the initial attack, with robust aromas of grapefruit, quince and spice. The texture is ripe and powerful, with balanced acidity and enough extract to linger on the palate. The grapes come from 2.77ha of vines in this right-bank terroir; they are gently pressed as whole clusters and mainly fermented in cask. The wine is pleasant now but should open considerably with a bit of age and will likely drink well for years to come.
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A savory white, evoking peach, apple, herbs and bitter greens. Intense and resonant, with hints of tannins, oak spice and mineral on the long aftertaste
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There is an excellent balance between rich, honeyed notes and very crisp, clean acidity. Stony edge to the finish. This is approachable now but really needs several years. From four parcels, part of the blend is matured in barrel, the rest in tank.
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(from 4 different parcels of 35+ year old vines that total 2.77 ha; 20% old wood). Here too there is just enough wood influence lurking in the background of the vaguely exotic aromas of white peach, apricot and oyster shell to merit pointing out. There is impressive volume and mid-palate density to the larger-bodied and solidly powerful flavors that are rich to the point of opulence before concluding in a sappy and lingering finish where the only nit is a touch of warmth.
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