Normally when I think about touriga nacional I think power and weight but this peculiar offering of TN is grown on granite and the difference is astounding. Since 2009 Monte Meão has been making its way as a single varietal wine boasting some magnificent aromatic notes and purity fruit albeit with a stony undercurrent. Think violets and stones mixed with a fleck of Bing cherries, black olives and savoury herbs. Just when you think it's going to be a monster, it reveals a freshness and subtlety of texture, texture and texture. Another gastronomy wine that you can drink or hold for two decades. Excellent value.
February 2018