Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er cru
2022
An attractive mix of peach, apple, lemon, oyster shell and fresh herb flavors are the hallmarks of this expressive and complex Chablis. Intense from beginning to end, with a kaleidoscopic finish.
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Very pure and crystalline on both nose and palate. Real drive and energy, just the vaguest hint of wood which adds more to texture than flavour. A very fine example. Billaud-Simon has plots within the three sectors of Montée de Tonnerre, with the oldest plots in the Pied d'Aloup climat which reach 87 years old. Olivier Bailly normally only uses tank for this climat but this year has 6% in barrel.
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(from a 2.5 ha parcel of 35+ year old vines – two thirds of the blend is from Chapelot, and the remainder is from Pied d’Aloup and Montée de Tonnerre proper; the Pied d’Aloup vines were planted in 1935). More moderate though still easily detectible wood is present on the nose of iodine, mineral reduction, white flowers and a hint of oyster shell. The markedly finer middleweight flavors exude evident minerality that adds a sense of lift to the balanced, nicely dry and impressively long finish that displays the natural class of a fine MdT. Excellent.
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