Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvee de la Reine des Bois
2021
The Delormes of Domaine de la Mordorée are a lovely family, committed to their terroir in the broadest possible sense. For them 'terroir' is not merely an expression of geology or geography: rather it is a concept that embraces the totality of life in the place where they live and everything about the way they conduct their lives in that place. They consider themselves to be 'guardiens' of the local ecology, which is why they farm biodynamically, and why they have chosen 'la Mordorée' as...
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Luscious aromas of strawberries, cherries, blackcurrant and blackberries, with hints of violet, liquorice and developing notes of leather and truffle. On the palate, concentrated, fat, ample with a very long, fruity and liquorice finish. An excellent pairing with red meats, dishes in sauce, game and soft cheeses.
Opaque ruby. Expressive red and dark berry liqueur, cherry cola, licorice and floral aromas are complemented by exotic spice and smoky mineral flourishes. Broad and fleshy in texture, offering deeply concentrated blackberry, boysenberry and bitter cherry flavors that turn sweeter as the wine opens up. Finishes with impressive clarity, well-judged tannins and superb, floral-driven persistence.
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Deep violet. Vibrant, mineral-accented red/blue fruit preserve scents are complemented by baking spice and potpourri topnotes. Sappy and concentrated on the palate, showing vibrant lift and energy to intense blueberry, cherry cola, floral pastille and spicecake flavors that deepen with air. Finishes sweet, seamless and impressively long, with steadily building tannins adding shape and closing grip.
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What a beautifully ripe mulberry aroma this Chateauneuf has! An imposing but stunningly fine tannin structure neatly supports the richness and concentration on the full-bodied palate. Very long, creamy and dry finish with a pronounced licorice note that pulls you inexorably back for more. A complex blend based on grenache. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification.
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The flagship 2021 Châteauneuf Du Pape La Reine Des Bois is slightly deeper hued, with more blackberry and darker cherry fruits intermixed with notions of roasted herbs, black licorice, and peppery garrigue. It's concentrated and medium to full-bodied, with building structure and a great finish. I'd put it up with the crème de la crème of the vintage. Drink bottles over the coming 10-15 years. The 2021 is a normal blend of 80% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, and the rest Vaccarèse, from the Le Bois de la Ville, La Crau, and La Nerthe lieux-dits, that was destemmed and aged mostly in stainless steel (80%) with the rest in used barrels and a splash of new oak.
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The Grand Vin 2020 Châteauneuf Du Pape La Reine Des Bois checks in as a blend of 80% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, and the rest equal parts Syrah and Vaccarèse. This cuvée is always a denser, more concentrated and structured wine compared to the La Dame Voyageuse release and requires bottle age to show its full potential. Blackberries, black cherries, cracked pepper, and new leather notes are all present in this medium to full-bodied, concentrated, rich, and structured 2020. There's a firmness here that reminds me a little of the 2005, yet it's a more up-front, charming wine that will benefit from just short-term cellaring, which is very much in the style of the vintage.
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The only 2019 presented, the 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape La Reine Des Bois checks in 80% Grenache and the rest Syrah, Mourvèdre, and Vaccarèse that was brought up 20% in old barrels and 80% in tank. This inky hued 2019 boasts a beautiful nose of ripe dark fruits, smoked earth, licorice, and garrigue. With wonderful purity (which is a hallmark of the vintage), full-bodied richness, and a decadent, opulent texture, this is thrilling stuff all the way. It’s going to flirt with perfection and evolve for two decades or more.
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