Riesling Grand cru Rangen de Thann Clos Saint-Urbain
2018
Olivier Humbrecht is one of the world's most renowned winegrowers. He is a Master of Wine and has been described by Robert Parker as the greatest white winemaker on earth. Yet he is very soft spoken, humble, and self-deprecating, which makes him perfectly suited to his assumed role as a global ambassador of wine. He is a champion of terroir, biodynamic farming principles, and non-interventionist winemaking, whose family have been winegrowers in Alsace for 12 generations (since 1620). He is...
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The Rangen is the southernmost Grand Cru vineyard in Alsace. However, going south also means a higher altitude. In comparison, the Rangen would actually sit above the Brand in Turckheim! The cooler weather coming down the valley also explain why this vineyard bud-breaks so late. It is surprising, because the south exposure and the steepness of the slope (90%+) indicate a solar exposition. The soil is made of compacted volcanic ash: hard angular rocks, and like many metamorphic rocks, it contains elements that would produce fine clay when broken down by the soil cultivation and the action of the micro-orgnisms. This clay does migrate deep into the soil through cracks in the mother rock. As the vine ages, the roots go deeper and eventually can find all the nutrients and water reserve constituted by these clay. The volcanic rock also contains an unusual amount of minerals, probably at the origin of the smoky and flinty character of the Rangen wines and their strong saline taste.
The grapes were spectacular in 2018. Perfect ripeness, but also perfect fermentation. This vineyard has an unmistakable energy and is capable to transfer it to the wine.
The Rangen vineyard influence is so recognisable here. The nose is intense, smoky, flinty. There is volcanic dust on the nose. We realize that this is just a way of speaking, but this is the feeling one would get by smelling this wine! The wine covers the palate with a rich saline racy texture. This is an intense and long wine. The acidity kicks in on the finish which is also very dry. Fantastic Rangen! And the more time spend to discover it, the more comes out of the glass. It has so much to say.
So smoky, with intense gunpowder character, but also notes of forest mushrooms and jack fruit. This is not only very concentrated, but also has an amazingly sensual mouth-feel that sets out in the wide field of exciting dry Alsace rieslings from the 2020 vintage. Expands and expands as it flows over your palate until it blows your mind at the unbelievably long, smoky finish. From biodynamically grown grapes.
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Super smoky with enormous depth, but also incredibly precise and pristine with a salt, savory and mineral finish that doesn't want to stop. In spite of that unique personality and that there is a couple of decades of aging potential, it's so easy to enjoy right now. Made from biodynamically grown grapes.
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So smoky, with intense gunpowder character, but also notes of forest mushrooms and jack fruit. This is not only very concentrated, but also has an amazingly sensual mouth-feel that sets out in the wide field of exciting dry Alsace rieslings from the 2020 vintage. Expands and expands as it flows over your palate until it blows your mind at the unbelievably long, smoky finish. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold.
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Welcome to the dark side of the dry riesling force where gunpowder meets the stone at the heart of the peach. Dazzling racy intensity. Super-long and pure with a mountain of crushed rock character at the smoky finish. From biodynamically grown grapes.
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Initial whiffs of flint, apple and smoke dissipate, leaving this wine with a shy, closed nose. The palate still carries residual carbon dioxide that gives a little spritz but all that is just window dressing for a powerful and concentrated core. Yes, there is concentrated lemon, both peel and pith, but a stony expanse underneath makes this profound, smoky and compelling. The finish is bone dry, bracing and racy. Lemon echoes long, carrying stony heat in its cooling breeze.
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A unique dry riesling with an astonishing combination of mini banana, mirabelle, baking spice and sea salt. Super concentrated and super elegant, this has a level of poise that’s very rare in the 2018 vintage. I love the way the silky finish caresses the palate. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold.
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The 2021 Riesling Rangen de Thann Clos Saint Urbain Grand Cru is from the famously steep and dark volcanic rock of Rangen with some sandstone inclusions. The soil is rich in potassium which buffers the pH of the wine, making the acid less strident yet lending much power to the wines. The oldest plots of Riesling are up to 60 years old; the younger vines are 45 years old. The color is golden. Underneath the reduction is a spicy smokiness, with greengage and white pepper. There is something utterly fluid, intense, compact and concentrated that seems to have a total verticality, driving into the depth of the rock. The wine has luminous citric yet balanced freshness and is clear as a bell. Wait for this because it will be sensational. The finish is bone-dry and salty. (Bone-dry)
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Notes of flinty reduction combine with fresh green apple and lemon, giving an impression of smokiness. The palate is stony but offers depth and ripeness, with smooth fruit suggesting Amalfi lemon, Mandarin and grapefruit. Here and there a glimpse of Mirabelle plum appears, while the finish speaks of zestiness and barely unleashed power. Let this sleep for a while in the bottle. It will wake up and dazzle you.
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Pale yellow. Cool aromas of green apple, lychee, chlorophyll, powdered rocks and crystallized ginger, lifted by a whiff of orange peel. Dense and quite dry, displaying superb precision to the stone and spice flavors, which are complemented by a suggestion of chewy tropical fruits. Classic Riesling that finishes long and with superb cut and focus. Made from roughly 50-year-old vines.
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"Dry and well-focused, this Riesling shows power and definition, remaining well-meshed and accessible. Displays anise and apple pâte de fruit accents, with flavors of juicy pear, apricot tart, melon rind, lychee and honey, followed by a stony mineral note on the finish. Drink now through 2025. "
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Firm, dry and powerful, this white evokes a combination of peach, white pepper and grapefruit. It shows some heat now, so needs some time to settle down. Salty, mineral aftertaste.
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"Certified organic and biodynamic. RS 6.4 g/l. Cool, refined nose. Rich start and very multi-layered. Lovely! Already very complete and thoroughly enjoyable. Great balance. "
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Mouth-filling – quite a contrast to the introvert Clos Windsbuhl Riesling 2020. Pungent and crowd-pleasing with obvious ‘minerality.
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