Chianti Classico
2019
Monica Raspi hadn’t planned to be a winemaker. She was a veterinarian and had no training in viticulture or winemaking. But her heart spoke to her. When Monica’s mother announced her retirement from Pomona in 2005, Monica could not accept that the land she was so attached to, where many fond memories of her late father and childhood were created would be sold and no longer part of the family. In 2007, Monica closed her veterinarian clinic, picked up an enology book and started her adventure...
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Fermentation with indigenous yeasts and maceration on the skins for 18-24 days at 25°C. Malolactic fermentation in steel. Aging in Slavonian 7-20 hl oak barrels for 8 months, then 3 months in bottle.
The flesh and full palate address continues where 2018 left off though there is an openness to '19 that speaks to more warmth and a weightiness of developed tannin. Of comports in structural components, polymerizing commotions and long chains of conveyance. Bread as sustenance and life from a 100 per cent sangiovese Annata out of Monica Raspi's Sant’Ilario and Vigna del Termine vineyards teaming up for caress and no distress.
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The aromatic fruit character of this wine is so clearly defined that a sniff made me feel victorious - I began seeing red cherries lined up and could hear the slot machine shooting out coins. It's a gloriously primary fresh fruity nose, precise cherry and pink grapefruit aromas matched by equivalent clarity on the palate. The fruit is ripe and sweet (ripening is not much of a problem here) while the acidity tempers the warm, juicy fruit and the tannins offer crunch. Delectable, invigorating, simple but not banale; an excellent wine for any meal.
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In the far southwest of Chianti Classico, Pomona’s vineyards straddle the sub-areas of Castellina and Vagliagli. Vigna Sant’Ilario falls into the former while Vigna Termine is in the latter. Both east-facing parcels, the two are blended together for this annata bottling. Firm and structured rather than rich, the 2020 is a decidedly savoury wine. It leads with scents of smoke, sage and tobacco, picking up restrained, crisp black currants on the palate. With concentrated acidity and a minerally finish, this will benefit from a few more months in the bottle.
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The 2020 Chianti Classico is a potent, heady wine. A blast of dark cherry fruit, game, incense, licorice, tobacco and menthol brings out the wilder side of Sangiovese. The long, building finish is a thing of beauty. This strapping Chianti Classico is a bit rustic, but it is also very pleasing, in its own way.
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Lustrous mid ruby. Deep but understated and a little shy on the nose. Supple elegant and mouth-filling but still a little closed. Finely balanced and long and ends a little racy.
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