Vieilles Vignes Françaises
2010
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Unique flavors for a Champagne with dried fruits, Turkish delight and pate de fruit. Hazelnuts and sweet almonds. Medium-bodied with tiny bubbles. Flowers, chamomile, mineral, and dried tea. 2,300 bottles made from two parcels of pinot noir, Les Chaudes Terres and Clos St Jacques, next to the winery and growing on their on roots.
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The 2008 Blanc de Noirs Vieilles Vignes Françaises is a total thrill to taste. Bright and finely sculpted, the VVF expresses all of the natural tension of the year in grand style. One moment it is the aromatics that are most captivating, then in another moment it is the wine's total balance that makes the strongest impression. Constantly changing in the glass, the 2008 VVF is one of those rare Champagnes than can hold the taster's attention for hours, or at least until the bottling is finished. Bollinger's tiny production Blanc de Noirs from ungrafted vines in two tiny plots totaling 0.36 hectares is truly mesmerizing in 2008. I can't wait to taste it next to some of the other iconic vintages. Harvest took place on September 18 and the wine was vinified entirely in new oak. Dosage is 6 grams per liter.
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The 2010 Vieilles Vignes Françaises dazzles from the very first impression with striking aromatic presence and utterly captivating balance. Mirabelle, sweet red cherry, jasmine and passion fruit are some of the many notes that give the 2010 its decidedly racy, exotic personality. The 2010 exudes rare energy for this vintage, which was hardly easy in the field, not to mention real pedigree. It is absolutely unforgettable. I only hope to have a chance to taste it again someday.
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A brilliant wine, Bollinger's 2013 Blanc de Noirs Vieilles Vignes Françaises is finer boned and more elegant than the powerhouse 2008, but it is still one of the most powerful, intensely flavored wines produced in the region. Wafting from the glass with a deep bouquet of golden orchard fruit, honeycomb, baking spices, orange oil and ripe stone fruits, it's full-bodied, broad and fleshy, with a layered core of fruit girdled by racy acids. Concentrated and vinous, it concludes with a long, saline finish.
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Bollinger’s 2009 Vieilles Vignes Françaises is tightly wound and reserved, which is quite surprising given the warm, dry weather of the vintage. That won’t be a problem in time, of course, but readers should plan on being patient. With a few hours of air, apricot, plum, spice, dried cherry and candied orange peel start to appear, but the 2009 remains rather taut. In some years, VVF can be quite opulent, 2002 and 2010 come to mind. The 2009, on the other hand is much more vibrant. I wouldn’t plan on opening a bottle anytime soon. VVF remains one of the most compelling wines – still or sparkling – in the world. It emerges from ungrafted Pinot Noir vines in Aÿ’s Chaudes Terres and Clos St. Jacques lieu-dits and is vinified and aged in barrel. Dosage is 4 grams per liter.
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