- 97 points -

“My aim,” says Thibault Liger-Belair, “is to make a Charmes with some tension.” This comes from the highest part of the Grand Cru, which helps, and is fermented with 70% stems. It’s a very fine, polished wine, with lacy tannins, perfume and chalky freshness and more weight than you think at first.

- 97 points -

- 95 points -

Purchased fruit from 0.3ha of 70-year-old vines in the best part of Charmes. 70% whole clusters in the ferment, but the thickest part of the stem was removed. The result has bright blackberry fruit, with a brambly edge, a silky texture and impressive density. This nicely balances the approachable nature of the climat with old-vine density.

- 94 points -

Fermented with 40% whole bunches but no pigeage, so as not to extract too much tannin, this is made with purchased grapes, but reflects the quality of Thibault Liger-Belair’s line up in 2014. Elegant, floral and deceptively easy to drink, this doesn’t show its 70% new oak. 

- 92 points -

aged in 100% new oak; bottled in July): Good medium red. Extroverted nose combines raspberry, dried rose, leather and some animal funkiness. Wonderfully sweet, fat and saline; this silky, concentrated, highly nuanced wine is all about earth and dried flowers. Perhaps atypically pliant and accessible for young Charmes. Tannins are dusty but sweet and fine.

- 91 points -

(from Charmes proper; 30% whole clusters but only the tiny stems rather than the stalks). A surprisingly high-toned nose of pomegranate, herbal tea, red flowers and essence of red pinot fruit displays only hints of earth and underbrush. The generous and mouth coating medium weight flavors possess solid intensity before terminating in a lingering and naturally sweet finish that evidences a touch of stems though only a trace of austerity. This is a relatively fine version of the appellation and should be approachable after only 7 to 8 years of bottle age.

- 90 points -

Reduction overshadows the fruit but it does seem ripe. Otherwise there is very good intensity to the lavishly rich larger-scaled flavors that possess reasonable length though the supporting tannins are rigid and slightly tough. I suspect that this will soften somewhat before it's bottled but it's not likely to ever be seductive.

(90-93) Points

(from Charmes proper; 40% whole clusters). An exceptionally fresh, pure and surprisingly expressive nose features plenty of floral character on the red cherry, pomegranate, earth and soft sauvage elements. The fleshy and velvet-textured medium-bodied flavors possess a notably round mid-palate before tightening up considerably on the saline and mildly austere finish that really coats the mouth with dry extract.

(91-93) Points

(40% vendange entier, but Liger-Belair removes the main stalk of each cluster; 60% new oak, with the barrels selected "for freshness"):Moderately saturated medium red; Liger-Belair did no punchdowns here because he wanted to avoid excessive "roundness and largeness."Captivating perfumed aromas of raspberry, dried flowers and smoked meat. Very concentrated and intense, showing surprising saline energy to the sappy red berry and subtle floral flavors. Finishes spicy, perfumed and long and not overly tannic. This wine boasts very good body but shows no sign of heavy extraction. Liger-Belair purchases grapes from true Charmes and also takes care of the vineyards.

(90-93) POINTS

(from Charmes proper; 70% whole cluster but without the central stem). This too is moderately reduced though hints of floral character can be discerned and they can also be found on the medium weight, detailed and chiseled flavors that display fine length on the overtly austere finale. 

(90-92) POINTS

(vinified with 70% whole clusters, the highest of the range, but Liger-Belair removed the main trunk of the stems by hand; aging in 50% new oak): Bright ruby-red. A bit deeper-pitched and less showy on the nose than the Vosne-Romanée Aux Réas, with aromas of plum, black cherry, cassis and licorice sweetened by the oak element. Mouthfilling, supple, sweet wine with savory soil tones and a solid mineral underpinning but on the soft, plump side for grand cru. Finishes with firm but sweet tannins and sneaky length. These vines are planted on a north-south axis, and Liger-Belair began noting "Aux Charmes" on the label with the 2014 bottling.

(92-94) POINTS

(70% vendange entier; 80% new oak; Liger-Belair's parcel of small-berried 60-year-old vines on very shallow soil is ideally located close to Latricières-Chambertin and Chambertin): Bright dark red. Captivating perfume of raspberry, rose petal and spices offer superb finesse. Like liquid silk on the palate, conveying terrific depth to its flavors of raspberry, warm spices and smoked meat; more spicy than floral in the mouth. Finishes with lovely purity and thrust, not to mention firm structure and length. Liger-Belair did only pumpovers here, as he wanted "to stretch the wine, not enlarge it."

(90-93) POINTS

A super-fresh and attractively elegant nose displays notes of red currant, newly turned earth and violet that are trimmed in just enough wood to notice. The cool, pure and focused medium-bodied flavors possess good volume and muscularity along with excellent length on the well-balanced finale. This should amply repay mid to even longer-term cellaring.

(92-95) Points

Unctuous and explosive on the palate, the 2012 Charmes-Chambertin is laced with the essence of raspberry jam, wild flowers, spices and cloves. The impression is one of total silk as the Charmes opens up in the glass. Thibault Liger-Belair added that the 2012 came in at about 17% potential alcohol. Liger-Belair opted for pump overs exclusively during Vinification and is aging the wine in 100% new French oak. The 2012 is a bit extreme in style but it is also compelling.