- 96 points -

The position of Louis-Michel Liger-Belair’s parcel of Clos de Vougeot, close to the wall that surrounds the Grand Cru, protected it from the frost in 2016. It’s another very ambitious wine from this outstanding Vosne domaine, with layers of tannin and crunchy dark berry fruit, polished tannins and real zip and focus.

- 95 points -

Planted in 1944, Thibault Liger-Belair’s south-facing parcel covers 0.72 hectares. It’s a
serious, concentrated, sculpted wine, made to age and showing 50% new oak. The spicy whole bunches add extra complexity to what is quite a monolithic wine. 

- 95 points -

Liger-Belair owns a 0.75ha parcel planted to old vines in the centre of the vineyard, on the border with Echézeaux, in the section of the Clos known as Baudes Basses. A large proportion of the grapes are fermented as whole clusters, producing remarkably pure, immediately attractive ripe black fruit, dressed with hints of spice and fresh violets. The texture is dense and firm, but very polished and elegant. A very sophisticated Clos de Vougeot.

- 95 points -

The 2018 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru contains 40% whole cluster from the oldest parts of the vineyard, the younger vines de-stemmed. Apparently it struggled to complete its alcoholic fermentation and had to be transferred back into barrel, where it finally finished in June 2019. It has an intriguing bouquet with brown spices and black pepper infusing the vibrant red fruit that leaps from the nose. The palate is well balanced with fine, saturated tannins. The whole bunch is very well assimilated and lends complexity and precision on the finish. Superb.

- 94 points -

(from a .72 ha parcel on the Vosne side in the middle against the wall). A completely different nose presents itself here as the earth element is much more pronounced on the exceptionally fresh dark berry fruit, floral and humus suffused scents. There is fine concentration to the powerful, tautly muscular and strikingly intense broad-shouldered flavors that are shaped by ripe structural elements and plenty of palate coating dry extract. There is superb length on the youthfully austere and very firm finish that makes it quite clear that plenty of patience will be required.

- 93 points -

(from a .72 ha parcel on the Vosne side in the middle against the wall). Here the equally grudging and brooding nose is even earthier though aggressive swirling liberates fresh and softly spicy aromas of mostly floral-trimmed red currant. There is excellent volume to the impressively rich and punchy medium weight plus flavors that deliver very fine length on the energetic, firm and quite serious finish that is a bit less youthfully austere than usual. This is blessed with excellent underlying material and should mature well though again note that it will need it.

- 93 points -

- 93 points -

The 2018 Clos de Vougeot shows a bit of the heat and the concentration of the year: the harvest was nearly 20% down on 2017. Liger-Belair used the same techniques in the winery: 30% whole clusters, a three-week cuvaison, and aging over two winters in cask, half new. The result, however, is even darker and concentrated than the previous year – one might say almost slightly porty. Impressive if a bit monolithic with its super-ripe black fruits, yet there is still enough balance that it should be lovely with time.

(91-94) Points

(from a .72 ha parcel on the Vosne side in the middle against the wall; 20% whole clusters). Reduction again dominates the nose. The big, bold and muscular broad-shouldered flavors also possess plenty of mouth coating dry extract that helps to buffer the very firm tannins before terminating in a backward and austere but gorgeously long, balanced and complex finish. This distinctly old school and overtly powerful effort is pointless to buy unless you have the express intention of cellaring it for at least 10 to 12 years.

91-93 Points

Deep, bright red. Candied black cherry and licorice on the nose, along with a funky note of reduction. Very ripe but tight-grained, boasting excellent intensity to the rather muscular black cherry and pepper flavors. Strong juicy fruit here but very tannic and dominated by its structure in the early going. The peppery quality carries through on the aftertaste, giving the wine a faint dry edge.

(92-94) POINTS

(vinified with 40% whole clusters, the highest percentage yet for this wine; 50% new oak): Bright, dark red. Superb lift to the aromas of black cherry, violet and inky minerality, plus a whiff of goat cheese. Dense, sappy and energetic; more closed in the mouth than the nose suggests but boasts lovely subtle sweetness, precision and mineral spine, not to mention an element of power. Liger-Belair's holding is in the southwest corner of Clos Vougeot, "across from Echézeaux," and features long rows of vines that extend through limestone, brown clay and silt soil.

(92-95) POINTS

(from a .72 ha parcel on the Vosne side in the middle against the southern wall). Yet again reduction and wood overshadow the underlying fruit. This is even more  concentrated and muscular with outstanding size, weight and punch to the big-bodied flavors that are shaped by an exceptionally firm tannic spine that makes it unequivocally certain that, unlike the Les St. Georges, this absolutely must be cellared for at least 10 to 12 years first and I wouldn’t be surprised if it required fully 20 years before it reached its complete apogee.

92-94 Points

(from a .72 ha parcel on the Vosne side near the top). Here the nose is somewhat curious as it’s mildly lactic in character, which is very probably due to the late malo. There is superb power and richness to the very solidly structured big-bodied flavors that possess outstanding volume before terminating in an explosively long and quite intensely austere finish that delivers amazing length. This is on the disjointed side today but the significant potential is undeniable. Note that my predicted range assumes that the nose will clear up once it’s properly racked and aerated.

92-94 Points

The 2017 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru includes around 30% whole cluster fruit and around two-thirds new oak. It has a surprisingly opulent bouquet of plush dark plum and blueberry aromas, slightly floral in style. The palate is lively and full of tension, a little earthy and more linear than I would expect. This is a straitlaced yet sophisticated Clos Vougeot that should age with style. It will benefit from four to six years’ cellaring.

91+ POINTS

The 2016 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru is relatively deep in colour. The bouquet is very attractive with black cherries, kirsch and brambly black fruit, nicely defined with well integrated oak. The palate is medium-bodied with steely tannins on the entry. A firm backbone here. I appreciate the focus of the wine, even if it is a tad austere on the finish. Give this another two or three years to flesh out. Tasted blind at the 2016 Burgfest tasting.

(91-93) POINTS

Reduction. Otherwise there is outstanding intensity, volume and delineation to the imposingly-scaled flavors that possess a supple mid-palate that contrasts markedly with the youthfully austere and ever-so-slightly rustic finish. This too is going to Les St. Georges.