Brunello di Montalcino
2019
Gianni Brunelli was from an old Montalcino family. He dedicated his life to upholding the local traditions of great food, wine and hospitality. He became famous for all of the above at his legendary restaurant Osteria Le Logge in Siena "where customers are treated like friends and friends like gods". In 1988 he re-established his family's grape growing tradition at Le Chiuse de Sotto, a 2 ha vineyard below the hill town of Montalcino. An additional 4.5 ha vineyard named “Podernovone” has...
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Fragrant, focused and loaded with finesse, this stunner has enticing scents of rose petal, camphor, tilled earth and perfumed berry. Vibrant and savory, the chiseled palate delivers juicy red cherry, pomegranate, star anise and savory mineral framed in taut, refined tannins. Bright acidity keeps it radiant and balanced.
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A beefy, muscular style, this red features black cherry, blackberry and plum fruit shaded by earth, iron and spice flavors. Reveals a tangy edge, partly from the bracing acidity, with wild herb and savory notes on the lingering finish.
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Hauntingly dark yet inviting, the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino smolders up with a beguiling blend of grilled herbs and ashen stone lifted by white smoke that finally gives way to dried black cherries and cola. Sexy and suave, it floods the palate with velvety textures and supple ripe fruits, expertly balanced by a core of brisk acidity and salty mineral tones. Fine-grained tannins, along with a pleasantly bitter tinge, appear through the finale as the 2019 finishes long and full of tension, leaving the slightest trace of orange. The balance of richness and racy character within makes this a total standout.
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Aromas of ripe black-skinned fruit, tar and tobacco mingle with aromas of dark spice, coconut and new leather. On the full-bodied, enveloping palate, smooth, fine-grained tannins weave through mature Morello cherry, crushed black raspberry, licorice and camphor framed in firm, refined tannins. It closes on a hint of espresso.
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Proprietor Laura Vacca has crafted one of the top wines of the vintage from her high-altitude vineyards in the southeast- and northwest-facing plots just north of the town of Montalcino. It illustrates the warmth and dryness of the vintage without sacrificing precision or depth. Starting with macerated blueberry and cedar, this moves through marjoram, tarragon and fennel tea. It spreads across the palate sumptuously, dripping with dark wild forest berries. Soft, powdery tannins provide framework while uplifting acidity carries it all, finishing with concentrated citrus peel.
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Enticing nose of rosemary, wild cherries, lemon peel, chocolate strawberries and praline. It’s medium-bodied with a bright, fruit-forward palate, framed by fine-grained tannins. All in balance.
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As with the 2017 vintage, Laura Brunelli will not be releasing a Riserva. Instead, the Olmo vineyard which typically forms the backbone of the latter is an important component in this annata Brunello, making for a lovely and complete wine. Mint, lavender and fennel lead on the nose while sweet, succulent persimmon and crunchy pomegranate provide the backdrop on the palate, and the chalky tannins are rather sneaky in their grasp. There's a superficial accessibility, but substance, intrigue and backbone suggest even more to come.
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The darkly alluring 2018 Brunello di Montalcino grumbles up from the glass, with a mix of crushed plums and black cherries complemented by rubbed sage nuances. It’s soft-textured and deep, engulfing the palate in ripe wild berry fruit and spice, underscored by a savory herbaceous steak. A web of fine tannins is left to linger, creating a truly classic impression, as mentholated herbs and hints of wild strawberry linger on and on. This youthfully masked beauty will only require minimal cellaring to show its best.
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Sweet cherries and berries with some smoke and ash undertones. Medium body with firm, silky tannins that are slightly chewy, but polished and very pleasant for the vintage. Drink now or hold.
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Displaying a deeper though youthful red hue, the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino is expressive with cherry liqueur notes coaxing from the glass, and it is well-woven with plush, refined aromas of fresh leather, crushed flowers, mocha, and fresh herbs. Expressive, with focused clarity, a great, pure feel, notes of blood orange, and mineral undercurrents all weaving together through the palate, it’s long and pure, with noble structure and balanced energy. Bursting with life and refinement, it offers nervous tension and a lingering perfume of dried apricot on the finish. At this youthful stage, there’s a hint of oak spice that frames the wine beautifully, but it demands cellaring to come together further. This is going to be one to cellar and drink over the coming decades
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The 2018 Brunello di Montalcino does a great job of capturing the essence and the spirit of Sangiovese, a grape that delivers infinitely nuanced and complex results when in the right hands. This wine reveals wild cherry, blue violet, blood orange, rusty nail and sweet earth. There is a hint of scorched earth or baked clay that underlines the warmest months in this growing cycle. The results are balanced and fresh. I've mentioned alcohol content throughout this report, and although the 14% registered here is still quite high, is it below the average for its peers. This is a job very well done. Some 15,700 bottles, 200 magnums and 30 three-liter bottles were released.
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