Riesling Clos Windsbuhl
2017
Olivier Humbrecht is one of the world's most renowned winegrowers. He is a Master of Wine and has been described by Robert Parker as the greatest white winemaker on earth. Yet he is very soft spoken, humble, and self-deprecating, which makes him perfectly suited to his assumed role as a global ambassador of wine. He is a champion of terroir, biodynamic farming principles, and non-interventionist winemaking, whose family have been winegrowers in Alsace for 12 generations (since 1620). He is...
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The Clos Windsbuhl is located in the commune of Hunawihr and faces south/south-east at a high altitude for Alsace (~350 m above sea level). These conditions make for a late ripening terroir. Windsbuhl lies on a soil structure unique from the rest of the commune: the degradation of limestone by microbial activity results in the presence of clay in the soil which contributes to interesting expressions of minerality in the wines from this cru.
All wines are fermented in traditional oak vats using native yeasts. No additives are used, and chaptalization is never carried out. The wines are left on their lees and ferment at there own pace, the wines are not fined. Very little sulfites are added and the wines are bottled after at least 6 months on the lees.
This wine is refined and has a mineral driven nose, which combines bright citrus and white fruits. The palate has a smooth, delicate, mineral structure, but has fresh and bright acidity. This wine is beautifully ripe and has a long finish.
It’s hard to resist the fragrant bouquet of apricot and orange blossom! This is very dense and concentrated with very intense, chalky minerality, yet it remains so graceful and the very long finish shows wonderful silkiness that pulls you back for more. From biodynamically grown grapes.
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This smells of the ripest melon you can imagine. Fresh herbal notes, including a touch of mint. Super-elegant and bright with a very sensual, silky texture on the generous palate. The stunning concentration masks the high acidity that drives the very long and chalky finish. With this much vitality it surely has enormous aging potential. From biodynamically grown grapes.
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Vivid straw-green. Extremely deep, complex aromas of green apple, green papaya, gooseberry, jasmine and lemon verbena, with a bright mineral overlay. Fresh and juicy in the mouth, offering captivating, multilayered flavors of fresh citrus fruits, minerals and mint. Finishes with lemony acidity and a saline, almost oystery nuance (not surprising given the Muschelkalk calcaire soil, which is rich in fossils). This very reserved but absolutely beautiful Clos Windsbuhl will repay cellaring. Completely different from the 2012 Clos Windsbuhl, which was held much longer in cask.
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A noble wine that’s extremely subtle and delicate, the power seriously underplayed, almost hiding in the many corners of this shy beauty. Super-elegant interplay of ripe acidity, medium body and silkiness. Great aging potential. From biodynamically grown grapes.
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Although not officially a grand cru, the Clos Windsbuhl, a monopole of Zind Humbrecht, is widely regarded as one of the finest vineyards in Alsace. It's just above the village of Hunawihr on almost pure muschelkalk, a highly prized type of limestone, very similar in composition to the Rosacker grand cru and it's most famous monopole, the Clos Sainte Hune of Trimbach. And like the latter wine, the Clos Windsbuhl is always slow to open; it's also generally the last site to flower and the last riesling to be harvested among the vast holdings of Zind Humbrecht, given its higher elevation and proximity to the cool air flows descending from the upper Vosges Mountains. The maturity, and the health of bunches, were perfect in 2011, Olivier Zind Humbrecht tells me, with no botrytis, resulting in a bone dry (4.3 grams/liter of sugar with pH of 3.1), powerful wine of tremendous depth and concentration. The acids are tight and ripping, and reductive character (typical for this tpe of limestone) still masks the fruit and significant minerality beneath, so don't even consider opening this for another 2-3 years. But this is an absolutely magnificent riesling to be sure. Best 2017-2035+
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This is a crazy wine with sliced lime, mineral and a tangy finish. Full body, electrifying acidity. Tingling. Oyster and iodine influence. This is Saar-like!...Made from biodynamically grown grapes.
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« Ce vin blanc valse en bouche, pétillant d’une pointe d’acidité qui encadre les saveurs de nectarine et de melon, de gingembre râpé et d’anis étoilé, et dévoile une tension saline et acidulée. Étroitement ficelée et longue, la finale laisse retentir des notes minérales et de fruit. »
– Traduit de www.winespectator.com
A flinty glint of reduction shoots across the nose. Underneath, a sea of ripe citrus awaits with still-subdued intensity. Hints of earth and stone lend gravity while mandarin, ripe lemon and tangerine play a subtle, aromatic game. The harmonious and slender palate takes these flavors in stride and holds them with lemon intensity. The finish is dry, intense and long.
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Lots of crushed-apple, stone and kerosene aromas that follow through to a full body, layered fruit and a tangy finish. Contrastive.
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Oliver Humbrecht's wines need little introduction. And like the man himself, they are always full of generosity, depth and precision. This wine is from a 5.2ha vineyard in the stunning Hunawihr village. While still restrained, the nose opens up to wet stones and citrus notes. The palate has a beautiful structure with mineral acidity and fabulous tension. Despite its youth, it already has amazing depth but needs years to develop fully.
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Lots of crushed-apple, stone and kerosene aromas that follow through to a full body, layered fruit and a tangy finish. Contrastive. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold.
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A mineral-driven version, this displays austere power and intensity, with steely acidity and tightly meshed flavors of poached pear, Marcona almond, starfruit, white pepper, minerally petrol and smoke. Delivers a lightly honeyed quality that plays off the acidity to create an accessible, mouthwatering impression today, although this should age beautifully with some time in the cellar.
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A well-knit, fresh and accessible white, offering a sense of finesse and restraint to the finely layered flavors of fresh-cut apple, melon, ground ginger and white pepper, with hints of citrus zest, almond and fleur de sel and a long, smoky finish. Drink now through 2025. 50 cases imported.
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Laserlike acidity defines this statuesque Riesling, while the mouthwatering palate offers flavors of lime granita, crunchy white peach, fleur de sel and Thai basil. Long and vibrant, with a lasting, minerally finish.
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Bright yellow. Peach, lemongrass, mango, papaya and rose water on the pretty nose. Tactile and layered on the palate, with intense white stone fruit and ginger flavors lifted by a strong floral element. Impeccably balanced wine with a suave, extremely long finish. This was especially expressive when I originally tasted it from cask, showcasing the exotic tropical fruit aromas typical of the vineyard and the vintage in general, but it has shut down somewhat in bottle, which is also a characteristic of this wine.
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Rich nose but very taut and tense. It would be difficult to pick this as a Pinot Gris because it’s so dry and tense. Wait…
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