Chablis 1er cru Montmains
2020
Originaire de la Côte d’Or, Jean-Marc Brocard n’est pas le fils d’un vigneron, mais plutôt le fils d’un agriculteur natif du village de Chaudenay-le-Château. C’est grâce à son mariage qu’il a fait la découverte de l’univers du vin; en effet, il a épousé sa petite amie d’enfance, Claudine, la fille d’un vigneron originaire du village de St-Bris-le-Vineux, dans la vallée de l’Yonne. C’est à partir d’un hectare de vignes appartenant à son beau-père, Émile...
Consultez la page de JEAN-MARC BROCARD pour plus d’information
Montmains sits on the Serein River's left bank, on chalky soils. Its mineral rich terroir significantly impacts the wine, contributing to its stony character and floral undertones. The coolish 2021 is a saline mineral affair pitching citrus and licorice, all contained in its subtle, taut, leesy textures. It is a beautiful food wine that is only beginning its life. Oysters, anyone? Delicious
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An overtly floral-suffused nose presents notes of spice, ripe pear and citrus rind. The succulent and utterly delicious medium-bodied flavors possess very good vibrancy and length if not the same depth as the Côte de Léchet.
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The 2022 Chablis Montmains 1er Cru, aged half in foudres and half in stainless steel, has another quite backward nose with touches of nettle and asparagus, hints of orange rind emerging with time in the glass. The palate is fresh on the entry, taut and linear, unashamedly malic and appley in style with a strict, almost terse finish. Fine.
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Typical of Montmains, this has a sunny character, with a lick of honey from ageing in large foudres. Stone fruit and plenty of fruit ripeness here, finishing with a lick of orange zest.
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Plenty of density and richness on the palate, with a ripe stone fruit character and acidity to balance. Nice sunny edge to the fruit. Should age well but you could approach this relatively early.
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(from Montmains proper, one-third of which was barrel aged). A more elegant and notably more floral-suffused nose reflects notes of spice, white orchard fruit and lemongrass along with enough Chablis character to be convincing. There is a lovely sense of underlying tension to the delicious and well-detailed flavors that also conclude in a moderately dry and lingering finish where the only nit is the impression of warmth despite the low-ish alcohol level. This too should drink well on the younger side if that’s your preference.
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