17.5/20

Janvier 2023 (Millésime 2021)

Fennel pollen. Smokiness, as finespun and wraithlike as winter mist. Fresh-cut bergamot, nettle tea, white pears, wet chalk. Tightly tortile, in a way that their oh-so-ready-to-dance Soave 2021 isn't, this feels and tastes like a wine that just wants another one, two, yes please even three, years. It comes with the proffered promise, in time, of almonds, honey, braised fennel and silver-tip tea. The steely pleach of acidity and minerality run like a spinal cord through the wine. Hold, hold, hold on this nervy, complex, coiled wine.

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