Only 15% of this blend of Malbec with 9% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc saw any wood, and even that isn’t new, so it’s no surprise that A Lisa is engagingly floral, juicy and appealing. Raspberry, strawberry and black cherry flavours are supported by Patagonian acidity, savoury tannins and a chalky flourish.

The 2020 Malbec J Alberto is a Malbec with a 5% dash of Merlot from an old vineyard first planted in 1935 in Mainqué, Río Negro. Half aged in cement and 600 liter barrels, the rest was kept in stainless steel. Bright purple in the glass, fresh cherries are intertwined in the nose with violets, black tea and hints of country herbs as part of a substantial but delicate profile. The aging process plays a supporting role but offers no more than a faint whiff of orange petit fours. On the palate, the balance is precise with delicate weights and measures in which the flow is lean and releases an energy toward the end that fades entropically like a wind-up toy. An elegant wine.