Siena native Bernardino Sani began his wine career with a cellar internship at Argiano in 2002, and returned some ten years later, taking over as CEO in 2014. He has overseen a conversion to organic viticulture and an expansion of the cellar, with a shift toward use of larger Slavonian oak casks for the aging of the Brunellos. The benefits of these changes are apparent in this Brunello which, despite the warm and dry 2017 vintage, offers scents of rose petal and violet that are precise and lifted, with a cool mineral tone that energizes its vivid red and black cherry flavors layered with notes of licorice and tarragon. The wine gains energy over several days while maintaining that firm minerality that makes this wine so appealing.

The 2004 Barolo San Rocco, from a vineyard in Serralunga, is an explosive, structured wine bursting with black cherries, violets, menthol and tar. Full-bodied and ample on the palate, it possesses outstanding balance and an utterly engaging personality that makes it an absolute joy to taste. The San Rocco is always the most complete of the Azelia Barolos, and it is a wine I seek out in nearly every vintage. A recent bottle of the 2003 was also superb. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2024. 

Readers looking for a first-rate Barolo producer whose pricing has remained very fair need look no further than the wines of Azelia and proprietor Luigi Scavino. These are among my favorite wines to drink, especially in restaurants, where they don’t suffer from the larger markups that accompany some of the region’s better known bottlings.

Redcurrants, dried herbs, sweet spices and tobacco on the nose. It’s medium-to full-bodied with creamy tannins and lively acidity. Round, with a velvety texture. Complex and balanced, with a long, savory finish. From organically grown grapes.