Domaine Bonnet-Huteau, nestled in La Chapelle-Heulin, in the heart of Muscadet’s Sèvre et Maine appellation, has been producing Muscadet for over 150 years. Today it is run by the Bonnet brothers, Jean-Jacques and Rémi. This 42 hectare vineyard has been certified organic since 2005, and biodynamic since 2010. They’ve divided their Melon de Bourgogne into parcels to highlight the nuances and subtlety of their individual terroirs, and their focus is on producing pure, fresh, Muscadet. From 20-30 year old vines and profoundly rocky clays and amphibolite fossil-rich volcanic soils, Les Gautronnières was native fermented in stainless, with full MLF and 9 months on lees. Broken stones, subtle wild lemon, green apple waft through this smart and savoury Muscadet, with a grippy / buzzy underlay reflective of the soils, and a well-managed layer of herbal lees adding interest. Still quite tight and poised, this is drinking well now, and with time ahead.