Corton Grand cru Les Renardes
2019
La viticulture et le commerce du vin font partie intégrante des activités familiales depuis le début du 18e siècle. Les établissements vinicoles C.Marey et Comte Liger-Belair, qui ont été fondés en 1720 à Nuits-Saint-Georges et dont les actions ont été introduites à la Bourse de Lyon en 1923, figuraient parmi les maisons de négoce les plus importantes de la Bourgogne. S’appuyant sur la qualité des récoltes et de ses vins, la famille s’est efforcée d’étendre le domaine et...
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The grapes for this bottling come from a 0.3ha plot in the centre of Renardes. The result is supremely elegant, with effusive red and black fruit characters on the nose, and a distinctive mineral line. On the palate, the tannins are very well managed, appearing silky and fine, but with time one realises that there is a huge tannic charge and immense extract. A superb Corton.
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Thibault Liger-Belair has produced one of the best Cortons of the vintage, in a harvest when the Grand Cru made a number of very good wines. This comes from the top of the slope, where (counter-intuitively) there is more clay. It’s a fine, floral, elegant red, with spices and sap from 40% whole bunches and none of the rough edges that can Corton can bring.
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More than a third of the crop was lost to hail, but the end result is still impressive, partly because of the low yields. A mix of clay and mostly-limestone dominated parcels, this shows subtle spice from whole bunches, chalky minerality and stylish, polished tannins.
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From the highest part of Renardes, thes grapes are grown on very chalky soils and get no whole bunch fermentation as a result. It’s a high-browed, almost intellectual wine with finesse and nuance and none of the slightly rasping tannnins that you find in some Cortons. Fresh, stylish and classy.
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Thibault Liger-Belair has been making this wine under his négociant label since 2005. The 2018 was fermented with 40% whole bunches and aged in 60% new wood and is a classically sinewy, chewy Corton with some clove spice, damson and red cherry fruit and ageworthy underlying structure. Needs more time in bottle, but that's the terroir speaking.
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A classic Renardes nose is both complex and overtly sauvage as it only grudgingly offers up notes of relatively elegant red and black pinot fruit along with plenty of earth nuances. There is fine intensity to the muscular yet round and generously proportion flavors that exude a fine bead of minerality on the velvety finish. This really builds from the mid-palate and delivers excellent length though note well that this very serious effort will need at least a decade in the cellar to be at its best.
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The spicy and gamy nose features subtle earth and smoke nuances on the ripe and very fresh red currant, plum and dark raspberry aromas There is excellent mid-palate concentration to the broad-shouldered, intense and overtly powerful flavors that terminate in a robust, energetic and admirably complex finish that goes on and on. I like the velvety texture and while this is an imposingly scaled wine it is not rustic or hard even though patience will be required.
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(made with 40% whole clusters). A brooding, earthy and very serious nose consists of ample floral influences on the ripe and fresh wild red berry scents that are also trimmed in noticeable sauvage elements. There is fine richness to the dense and equally somber broad-shouldered flavors that possess a relatively supple mid-palate though the beautifully long and well-balanced finish tightens up in a rush. Not surprisingly this powerful and slightly rustic offering is quite youthfully austere at present and will definitely require at least a decade of patience.
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(Liger-Belair destems this wine entirely, as it's planted oncalcaire): Good deep red. Stony aromas currently overshadow wild red fruits on the reduced nose. Shows good richness but comes across as tight and unforthcoming today, even a bit dried by CO2. The long finish is surprisingly supple, though, leaving behind stone and saline notes. In an awkward stage but there's plenty of material here.
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distinctly sauvage, even animale nose of intensely earthy and ripe red and blue pinot fruit that is laced with wet stone, humus and forest floor. The earthy character continues onto the broad-shouldered and impressively scaled flavors that brim with both dry extract and plenty of power before culminating in a remarkably complex, focused and notably persistent finish. This balanced effort should benefit substantially from mid-term plus cellaring.
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(40% whole cluster but without the central stem). An overly floral nose is suffused with a variety of aromas that include dark currant, plum, spice, earth and sauvage hints. There is fine volume to the very suave and generously proportioned flavors that are at once caressing yet powerful, all wrapped in an austere, firmly tannic and impressively long finale. This could be approached after say 7 to 8 years but its Corton roots make sure this will need 15 to 20 years to fully resolve.
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(40% whole cluster). An intensely earthy and sauvage-infused nose is composed by notes of dark raspberry, violet and a hint of spice. There is once again fine volume, energy and intensity to the broad-shouldered flavors that possess excellent minerality that really comes up on the relatively refined, balanced and austere finale. This is also sufficiently firm that at least some forbearance will be required.
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Dark red-ruby. Subtle, sexy scents of raspberry and smoked meat, plus a whiff of licorice. Distinctly darker in the mouth than most of the foregoing 2015s, offering moderate flesh and sweetness but good subtle intensity to the juicy flavors of blackberry, licorice, minerals and bitter chocolate. The dusty tannins coat the sides of the tongue. This rather understated wine is in a distinctly intellectual style and should evolve slowly.
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Reduction dominates the nose but background hints of various floral elements are noticeable. Otherwise there is solid richness and volume to the appealingly detailed, energetic and powerful big-bodied flavors that brim with minerality and mid-palate sap before delivering outstanding length on the robust and very serious finale.
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Liger-Belairs' 2012 Corton Les Renardes is dazzling. Layers of expressive dark fruit blossom in an intense, structured Burgundy that is going to require quite a bit of time. This is classic Renardes in its power and muscle, yet all the elements fall into place gracefully. Smoke, iron, chalk and a host of mineral-infused notes support the finish. I find the balance of fruit and structure here absolutely compelling.
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