Chardonnay
2020
Hamilton Russell Vineyards, l'un des domaines viticoles les plus méridionaux de l'Afrique et l'un des plus proches de la mer, est situé dans l’appellation Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, juste derrière le vieux village de pêcheurs d’Hermanus. Le domaine est spécialisé dans la production de pinot noir et de chardonnay. En 1975, Tim Hamilton Russell a fait l’acquisition d’une propriété non exploitée d’une superficie de 170 hectares, après avoir longuement cherché un site idéal...
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Lower in alcohol than the 2019 release - the vintage was cooler, explains Emul Ross - this nuanced Chardonnay combines grapes from 22 different blocks on the farm and confirms the wine's status as one of the best examples in the Cape. Focused and saline, with subtle notes of struck match reduction, fine oak and some texture from 10% malolactic. Bravo!
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Ever the class act, Hamilton Russell's Chardonnay is in a rich vein of form right now. Using only 5% malolactic because of the warmer year, this is fresh, layered and detailed, with perfumed 23% new wood, notes of brioche and lemon butter and a stylish, stony finish. Concentrated without being heavy in any way.
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2018 produced a super taut, reductive serious expression and 2019 showed a lusher, more forward, accessible opulence, then 2020 is perhaps a marriage of these two styles. This is a wine full of confidence and composure, brimming with taut white citrus pith, green pear and lime peel, bruised green apples, white blossom and a complexing saline oyster shell minerality. On the palate there is a feel of density, dry extract, concentration and a really precise harmonious balance with layers of green melon, sweet lime jelly, melted butter and a full glycerol finish with just the faintest hint of butterscotch, lime cordial and vanilla pod spice. Seemless and sleek, the layers just melt into each other leaving a sensation of utter completeness. What a truly fabulous wine, resplendent in its mellow classical restraint, intense concentration and harmonious length. A big high five for Emul Ross!!
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Unlike the Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir in the fire-affected 2019 vintage, the Chardonnay was all made with estate fruit. Entirely whole bunch-pressed for the first time, it's a commendably bright, elegant and focused wine with less malolactic (10%) than normal, pithy acidity, a hint of stone fruit sweetness and refined 27% new French oak. Something of a triumph against the odds.
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A very successful wine this vintage, with its mineral notes and finesse illustrating the cooler character of the vintage. Saline and creamy on the palate with fine integration of oak, peach and pear fruit and an intriguing lime zest note, all kept fresh and focussed with lingering, cleansing acidity. Give this a couple of years and then enjoy.
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The 2022 Chardonnay is matured nine months in 300-liter French oak barrels, 24% new. It has a backward nose demanding just a little coaxing from the glass, revealing tempting lemon thyme, hazelnut and subtly smoky aromas. The palate is taut and fresh with a lovely, slightly waxy texture. The oak is nicely integrated, quite linear and tensile in style, with ample weight toward the poised finish. This is a classy Chardonnay from Hamilton Russell. 13.3% alcohol
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A very fine Chardonnay produced in difficult circumstances given the fire/smoke issues in the Western Cape. Unlike the Pinot Noir, this has been produced with 100% estate fruit and is very successful. Bunches were pressed whole (rather than de-stemmed) to reduce any smoke taint risks. Very crisp on the palate with fine acidity and a touch of stoned fruit, this is concentrated, mineral and elegant. Very youthful, ideally give this another 12 months to blossom a bit more.
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