Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Dame Voyageuse
2021
The Delormes of Domaine de la Mordorée are a lovely family, committed to their terroir in the broadest possible sense. For them 'terroir' is not merely an expression of geology or geography: rather it is a concept that embraces the totality of life in the place where they live and everything about the way they conduct their lives in that place. They consider themselves to be 'guardiens' of the local ecology, which is why they farm biodynamically, and why they have chosen 'la Mordorée' as...
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A fragrant and spicy Chateauneuf that marries richness and structure with finesse and fascination. The fine tannins build beautifully at the self-confidently dry finish, where spicy and chalky elements mingle beautifully, with just a hint of milk chocolate neatly accenting this. A complex blend based on grenache. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification.
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The Grenache-dominated 2020 Châteauneuf Du Pape La Dame Voyageuse is another winner, and while this is billed as a forward, base cuvée, don't let that fool you – it's a brilliant Châteauneuf du Pape (that often represents an incredible value). A blend of 90% Grenache and small amounts of Syrah, Mourvedre, Vaccarese, and Counoise, its deeper ruby hue is followed by a beautiful array of black raspberry and mulled cherry fruits as well as Provençal garrigue, sandalwood, and spice. Medium to full-bodied, seamless, elegant, and perfectly balanced, it shows the charming, elegant, layered style of this vintage beautifully.
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Bright violet. Primary red and dark berry and garrigue scents are complemented by licorice and white pepper flourishes. Appealingly sweet and open-knit, offering energetic raspberry, cherry cola and lavender pastille flavors that tighten steadily with aeration. Shows fine clarity and spicy cut on a long, penetrating finish that's given shape by subtly chewy tannins.
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The more Grenache-dominated release from this great estate, the 2021 Châteauneuf Du Pape La Dame Voyageuse checks in as 90% Grenache with small doses of Syrah, Mourvèdre, Vaccarèse, and Counoise that was raised in a combination of stainless steel, old barrels, and tiny amount of new oak. It's incredibly well done and has a medium to full-bodied, concentrated style as well as gorgeous aromatics of black raspberries, mulled cherries, Provençal spices, and sandalwood. With nicely integrated oak, ripe, well-integrated tannins, and a great mid-palate, it's a terrific 2021 that readers will love to drink any time over the coming 10-12 years or so.
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