October 2023
BILLAUD-SIMON
Chablis Bougros Grand cru 2022
(from a purchase of must). Be aware that Bailly noted that to this point the Bougros had only seen contact with stainless steel though it’s possible he may rack it into barrel for a few months before it’s bottled. A cool and reserved nose grudgingly offers up a combination of pronounced smoky mineral reduction, quinine and ocean breeze. The powerful, concentrated and muscular big-bodied flavors possess a lovely sense of underlying tension that also suffuses the crisp, very dry and beautifully long finish. This isn’t refined, indeed it’s borderline rustic but then again, elegance isn’t why one buys Bougros.
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Burghound.com is the result of a nearly lifelong passion for the wines of Burgundy. For more than 30 years, I have been collecting the wines and visiting the region. Each year I spend nearly five months visiting, researching, tasting, exploring and evaluating. Burgundy is my obsession really. Expanding on my coverage of the coveted pinot noir grape, each issue provides continuous coverage of both Oregon and California pinot noir, with rotating coverage of Champagne and occasional special reports from other pinot producing regions.