Oddly, this feels lighter on its feet than the Orphan Bank, with a melody of red and dark fruits all, slung across a sumptuous palate of bitter chocolate tannins, charred meat, a solo of high-toned volatility and sneaky acidity, imbuing focus and poise in the context of the ancient vine hedonism in which this wine resides. The caveat is the burn across the Adam's apple. Put it this way, though, such a wine cannot be replicated elsewhere.
August 2017