Chablis Vaudésir Grand cru
2023
Sunny, warm, toasty and plenty of acidity. A grand cru with power yet retains plenty of finesse and purity. Partly matured in barrel, the oak is certainly evident, although Olivier Bailly says the wood will virtually disappear after a year in bottle.
Voir la revue de presse détaillée
(from 3 parcels totaling .49 ha that come from both sides of the appellation; 50% wood). The nose is difficult to read as there are still residual lactic nuances along with ample wood toast. The palate impression is much more interesting with its sappy and caressing texture that is highly seductive while displaying a lovely sense of refinement on the compact, moderately dry and balanced finale. This should cleanup nicely and repay up to a decade of keeping.
Voir la revue de presse détaillée
(from 3 parcels totaling .71 ha that come from both sides of the appellation). Here too there is a vague whiff of exotic fruit lurking in the background of the moderately oaked nose of mineral reduction, pretty floral and ample spice wisps. There is excellent punch to the markedly finer if much less powerful and imposing middleweight flavors that exude a subtle minerality on the lingering, firm and built-to-age finale. This needs to develop more depth but that should not be a problem if it’s allowed at least a few years of cellaring.
Voir la revue de presse détaillée