Shiraz
2021
Shaw + Smith winery was founded in 1989 by Michael Hill Smith and Martin Shaw with the goal of producing elegant, refined, world class wines from the cool climate Adelaide hills region of Australia. That Shaw + Smith have succeeded in spades should come as no surprise given the resumes of the winery's two founders. Michael Hill Smith was born into wine, a member of the Yalumba family. A Cordon Bleu trained chef, wine writer, wine judge, and Australia's first Master of Wine he relished the...
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The Adelaide Hills has now proven it can make truly exciting spicy Shiraz. The key is careful site election, low yields and
restrained use of oak. The blend component from the
warmer sub-area of Macclesfield gives structure and richness, whilst Balhannah contributes spiciness and perfume. A vibrant, modern interpretation of Australian Shiraz.
The nose is lifted and perfumed, with fruit-driven aromas of blackcurrants, licorice, sweet spices and cured meat. The palate is medium- to full-bodied with finely integrated tannins, focused acidity and notes of wild blackberries, blood plums, ferric earth, mocha and dried herbs. Wonderfully balanced and structured, with 50% whole-bunch fermentation.
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Leaner, lighter and fresher than what I recall, although picked later than usual. A cool and attenuated year, more Euro of styling, the platform. Real vibrato! Satsuma plum, lilac, Bing cherry, star anise and clove meld with white pepper, cedar and vanillin-framed tannins that drive proceedings long. Savvy bunch and oak assemblage confer poise and authority. Classy, while needing time to shed the oak cladding.
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The 2021 Shiraz is ever the silky, svelte wine, never more than in this elegant, restrained vintage. It has cool, mineral detail overlaid by bright blue fruits and exotic spice. The tannins are very fine and serve to shape the fruit rather than intrude. It is perfumed, supple and seamless. It has by far the best concentration and complexity of all the vintages tasted here today (2015-2021). It has notes of raspberry, mulberry, licorice, beetroot, cranberry and redcurrant as well as white pepper, clove and star anise. Lovely wine here! It has sweet oak and is perfumed and shapely. Good!
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