Brunello di Montalcino Riserva PS
2015
Identified by the Wine Spectator as 'the best winemaker in the appellation of Brunello di Montalcino', Giancarlo Pacenti took over running his family's 60 hectare estate in 1988. His wines are renowned for their combination of richness and structure. They somehow remain remarkably fresh, pure, and elegant, despite being aged in French oak barriques rather than the large Slovenian oak botti many producers choose in the pursuit of freshness, purity and elegance. The total estate includes 20...
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The purity of fruit here is so stunning with blackberry, black-cherry, black-truffle and floral aromas, as well as orange peel. It’s full-bodied and very compact with ultra fine tannins that are copious and balanced. It goes on for such a long time. The purity and precision is something else, not to mention the length and depth. So delicious now and a joy to taste.
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The PS is the sole single vineyard bottle produced by Siro Pacenti, with only 1000 bottles and 200 magnums being produced. PS is sourced from vines planted by Siro Pacenti in the early 1970s on the northwest side of Montalcino and is only produced in the best vintages. The 2015 PS is rich and inviting, with sweet blackberry and plum fruit, licorice, and crushed lavender. The palate is full, though it has more freshness than the nose would suggest, with gripping tannins and energetic acidity to match. The warmth of the vintage is tangible, and for that reason I believe the 2016 will have some edge in the long haul for aging potential. As with the rest of the Brunello line-up, the PS spent two years in French oak of 225 liters that is noticeable but poised for a polished style. Enjoy over the next 15 years.
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Paying homage to founder Pacenti Siro, PS is sourced from a 1.5-hectare plot which he planted in the early 1970s. Suitably restrained, it takes its time to open. Initial roasted, grilled notes speak to ageing in 100% new French oak barriques, but there is plenty more as it unfolds: sage, fennel and fragrant florals poke through. The palate is polished, sophisticated and buoyed by racy Sangiovese acidity. The tannins are chalky, almost clayey, as they cling to the palate, and it finishes with a stony, mineral-like sensation. Give this a few years for the tannins and oak to mellow and merge.
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