Gewurztraminer Turckheim
2020
Olivier Humbrecht is one of the world's most renowned winegrowers. He is a Master of Wine and has been described by Robert Parker as the greatest white winemaker on earth. Yet he is very soft spoken, humble, and self-deprecating, which makes him perfectly suited to his assumed role as a global ambassador of wine. He is a champion of terroir, biodynamic farming principles, and non-interventionist winemaking, whose family have been winegrowers in Alsace for 12 generations (since 1620). He is...
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On the gravelly valley floor of Turckheim, Gewurztraminer is perhaps the most planted grape variety. This grape variety has the potential to ripen to very high sugar level but needs some time to also ripen physiologically. Of all the cultivars planted in Alsace, Gewurztraminer is the one that struggles the most to change colour (véraison) and is the richest in polyphenols, hence the need of a warmer micro-climate and early ripening site, conditions found in Turckheim. Unfortunately, these soils have very little water retention capacity due to exceptional drainage capacity. Climate change in Alsace means warmer temperatures during the ripening season. The consequence is that the vines need more water to compensate a higher evapotranspiration. In 2022, this area in Turckheim missed almost all the rains the neighbouring vineyards were lucky to have. There was a big potential of harvest, but the drought and heat provoked coulure and in summer the berries remained very small. The high ratio skins/juice increases the aromatic and phenolic concentration of the wine. Luckily, because the grapes ripen earlier when days are warmer/longer, it is also quicker to achieve such ripeness and therefore avoiding high sugar concentrations.
Bright pale yellow colour. The nose is so textbook Gewurztraminer with all the floral aromas, so typical from this vineyard. There is also a nice presence of more complex spicy and peppery aromatics. The palate shows an unexpected structure enhanced by its very dry palate. There is no soft/sweet mouthfeel, on the opposite, tannins, ripe acidity, and a strong mineral presence allow for a complex and tight palate. The consequence of the dry climate in 2022 is a wine with lower alcohol than usual. Elegant and not overpowering. Hard to believe, but this Gewurztraminer is a very food friendly wine as well!
A bold and floral gewurz with plenty of yellow-rose character. Generous and soft palate with a hint of bitterness that actually adds to the impression of freshness. With some aeration, cinnamon and allspice character develops. From biodynamically grown grapes.
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