- 95 points -

From vines about 50 years old and picked at 76° Oechsle, the 2021 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett is the only "Kabi" made here in this vintage that simply lacked the quantity to select for both styles. This one here is very delicate and refined on the subtle yet finely concentrated and elegant nose. Crystalline, refined and lush on the palate, with very delicate, filigreed fruit that is infused with very elegant acidity, this is a beautiful, balanced and stimulating Kabinett with ripe but fine fruit that does not envelop the acidity but intertwines with it and begins to dance. There is great finesse and balance with filigreed structure, and this is probably one of the finest Kabinett wines of the vintage on the Mosel. 7.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork.

- 95 points -

- 93 points -

Issuing from old vines in especially finely morcellated slate, this is the latest Richter exploration of radically low-must weight and correspondingly delicate Kabinett. Picked at just 77 Oechsle, it boasts what for the vintage, not to mention for the Richters’ collection, is a remarkably high 9.8 grams of acidity. Lemon, lime and white peach on the nose translate into bracingly bright, generous juiciness on a firm, delicate palate. Subtly smoky, bitter-sweet nutty undertones and a vivid sense of crushed stone suffusion serve to balance and buffer the animating acidity – conveying a suggestion of richness that is uncanny given this wine’s analysis – as do a perfectly judged 38 grams of residual sugar. The bell-clear, vibrant finish conveys penetrating persistence and complexity, not to mention eye-opening invigoration and consummate refreshment. I’ll be surprised if this does not age terrifically. Richter – in common with some of his lightness-obsessed colleagues like Julian Haart and Ulli Stein – believes that old ungrafted vines are critical to rendering a complete and complex Riesling at such low potential alcohol, but he also emphasizes the significance of site. “If I had picked my really old vines in Wehlener Sonnenuhr at 77 Oechsle,” he averred, “I would have had to do so earlier, and my impression is that the flavors would have been too green.” (“Fuder 4” is simply a nickname by which the Richters have chosen to distinguish their radically delicate non-dry Juffer Kabinett from its otherwise eponymous sibling. The primary, presentation label simply displays a large “4.”)

- 93 points -

The 2022er Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett -4-, as it is referred to on the consumer label, was made from fruit picked at a low 77° Oechsle on almost 90-year-old un-grafted vines and was fermented down to fruity-styled levels of residual sugar (45 g/l). It offers a beautiful nose made of pear, grapefruit, floral elements, a hint of citrusy-infused whipped cream, and smoke. The wine is gorgeously playful and dances on the palate where a touch of creaminess is beautifully wrapped into tart and zesty elements. The finish is juicy and makes one magically want to go for more. While it will improve with a few more years of bottle aging, this gorgeous Kabinett proves already quite irresistible now.

- 93 points -

The 2021er Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett was made from fruit picked at 78° Oechsle on 50-year-old vines and was fermented down to fruity-styled levels of residual sugar (48 g/l). It offers a quite aromatic and complex nose of orange, yellow peach, grapefruit, a hint of apricot, cherry, prune, and smoke. The wine is delicately juicy and fruit-driven on the palate, but the acidity is quick to join the party and gives quite some focus to what could be seen as a slightly riper aromatic. The finish is straight, racy, and spicy, and almost sharp at this early stage, so that a couple of years are needed. 

- 92 points -

The 2017er Brauneberger Juffer Kabinett (AP 15) was harvested at 86° Oechsle. It delivers a ripe and aromatic fruity nose of apricot, canned yellow peach, spices, herbs and lead pencil. The wine coats the rich, smooth and delicately round palate with juicy and creamy fruits.

- 91 points -

The Juffer Kabinett (AP13) was harvested at 84° Oechsle. It offers a delicately creamy nose of vineyard peach, melon, grapefruit and fine herbs. The wine is juicy and spicy on the palate and leaves a great refreshingly tart feel in the long and focused finish. This structured Kabinett will need a good decade in the bottle in order to develop its full potential. It could eventually warrant a higher rating as it mellows away and integrates
aromatically.

93+ points

From 90- to 100-year-old vines and picked a week after the regular Kabinett, the 2022 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett –4– is very clear and beautifully refined on the still shy but very elegant and flinty, pretty coolish nose. Lush and savory on the palate, with serious mineral grip and tension, this is a mouth-tickling and positively astringent Kabinett with lemon bitters on the long and intense aftertaste. It was bottled with 40 grams per liter of residual sugar and 7% stated alcohol in March this year. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in May 2023.