Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl
2018
Olivier Humbrecht is one of the world's most renowned winegrowers. He is a Master of Wine and has been described by Robert Parker as the greatest white winemaker on earth. Yet he is very soft spoken, humble, and self-deprecating, which makes him perfectly suited to his assumed role as a global ambassador of wine. He is a champion of terroir, biodynamic farming principles, and non-interventionist winemaking, whose family have been winegrowers in Alsace for 12 generations (since 1620). He is...
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Pale yellow colour. He first nose shows the typical Windsbuhl ‘reduction’ and an almost austere tight aromatic profile. Clearly the longer full lees ageing of 18 months has closed the wine, but that’s only for now. A good decantation will slowly make the wine open up, first with toasty/smoky flavours and then more ripe fruits. This is potentially the wine that will take the longest to find its place of all 2018s, but what a potential! The palate is powerful, full flavoured, intense and a with a rich velvety texture on the finish.
Pinot gris has the reputation of being easygoing, but this dry pinot gris from Alsace has enormous energy and vitality. The staggering citrusy juiciness electrifies the super-concentrated, medium-bodied palate. At this stage in the wine’s very long life, the finish is a wild ride thanks to the chalky intensity. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drinkable now, but best from 2026.
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Gold-tinged straw. Ginger, quince and white stone fruits on the nose and in the mouth, along with delicate smoky and sage nuances. The long finish features a note of sweet pear nectar and lingering minerality. This wine has 10 g/l residual sugar and 6.2 g/l total acidity, so it tastes dry; it reminded me a little of a Chenin Blanc. It also has a whopping 14.5% alcohol, but you’d never know it. The ability to reach this marvelous balance is the true magic of the Clos Windsbuhl and Olivier Humbrecht’s talent.
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Lemon pie and almond aromas. Steel undertones. Full body, dense and layered. Big and rich style yet it's dry. An oily profile yet turns dry and satisfying. Drink now. Made from organically grown grapes.
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Don’t expect a lush Alsace pinot gris, because this generous and highly structured dry pinot gris is still tightly wound and the main aromas are smoke, toast, nutty apple and fresh mint. Built to last, though the long finish is supple, it’s fully packed with chalky character. Those who are patient will be richly rewarded! From biodynamically grown grapes. Better after 2021.
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The full force of aromatic, dried pear rises from the glass, laced with dried apricot and candied peel. The pear fruit becomes exquisitely clear and pure on the palate, which is profound but slender. The wine is dry but powerful, holding at its core all the ripeness and fruit flavor from brilliant sunlight. It almost warms you from inside and goes on and on.
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Lots of honey, dried mushroom and apricot character. Full body, off dry, yet remains intense and agile. Very long and beautiful. Hints of walnut and almond undertones. Drink now. Almost vendange tardive level. Made from biodynamically grown grapes.
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The 2018 Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl offers lovely concentration and depth. Apricot, passion fruit, tangerine oil and dried flowers all develop nicely in the glass. I would give the 2018 a year or two in bottle to soften, as it is a bit severe today.
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The creamy juiciness of freshly cut, ripe Williams pear dances appetizingly on the nose of this wine. Fruit purity is also apparent on the palate, imbued by vivid, rounded juiciness and supported by a lovely backdrop of pithy, slightly phenolic texture. This adds grace and backbone and lets the juicy pear notes express themselves fully. The finish is wonderfully dry and lasting.
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Bright yellow-gold. Aromas and flavors of mirabelle, quinine, powdered stone, minerals and medicinal herbs. Strong but harmonious acidity gives this very rich, slightly exotic off-dry wine a lovely sugar/acid balance. The slow fermentation no doubt contributed to the wine's tactile mouth feel. Rich, suave and very ripe wine, with a long, dusty finish. A superb showing today.
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