Michaela Morris, November 2023
BIONDI-SANTI
Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1988
- 98 points -
This bottling marks the 100-year anniversary of the creation of Brunello di Montalcino, and Franco Biondi Santi was very positive about the 1988 vintage, calling it exceptional. After an extremely wet spring, summer was warm with little rainfall and transitioned slowly to the dry, cool conditions at harvest. An exceptionally delineated nose starts with baking spice nuances of cinnamon and nutmeg, before evolving into dried tarragon and mint, then finally tobacco and black tea. Still laser-sharp, the palate is savoury in profile and shored up by steely and thrillingly upright tannins, yet there is a generosity to the fruit that hangs beautifully on the frame. This is ageing seamlessly.
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