Picked at only four degrees Oechsle more than the corresponding Kabinett, but from older vines, this features scents and juicy abundance of red raspberry, white peach and grapefruit shot through with the same saliva-inducing salinity that helped make that Kabinett memorably delightful. The feel here is surprisingly firm but disarmingly and delectably delicate, leading to a refreshingly lingering finish of striking clarity and tingling brightness, its alluring purity of fruit supported by unobtrusive sweetness.
January 2018