Barolo Margheria
2004
Le domaine Azelia est encore un secret que partagent les passionnés de Barolos. Bien que le domaine ne soit pas très médiatisé, le propriétaire, Luigi Scavino (le cousin d’Enrico Scavino du domaine Paolo Scavino), partage la propriété de la célèbre colline de Fiasco avec Scavino, en plus des terres de San Rocco, à Serralunga. Fondée en 1920 par le grand-père Luigi, la ferme familiale de Scavino est située dans le village de Castiglione Falletto. Luigi élabore tous ses vins au...
Smells like a bunch of fresh roses with strawberries and white mushrooms. It’s full-bodied with a very fine, layered palate with lightly dusty tannins. It’s extremely long and sophisticated.
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Margheria is an MGA in Serralunga, where Azelia occupies the higher westerly aspect. This makes the wine more austere in comparison to examples from other producers. Bright ruby in the glass, the scents are mostly focused on violets, with rhubarb and red berry notes. The palate is vibrant and mineral, with ripe, lavish tannins and bracing acidity. The structure and the almost-tart fruit are finely tailored. Outstanding now, but built for the long haul.
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While most of the Azelia 2004s performed inline with previous tastings, the Margheria has turned out to be more compelling than I had originally foreseen. Lavender, smoke, iron, herbs, dark cherries, plums and spices give the wine its striking aromatics. Tension, energy and precision are the signatures. There is so much to like here. The Margheria spent 30 months in Slavonian and Austrian oak casks.
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Azelia makes three wines with fruit from Serralunga d'Alba, including San Rocco, Cerretta and this wine. There is also a Riserva from Bricco Voghera. The 2019 Barolo Margheria comes from a southwest facing slope opposite the Perno Vineyard. The site has very poor soils with white clay, and the vines (aged 65 years old on average) are forced to push their roots very deep as a result. This wine has a tight and very firm personality with dark fruit, rusty nail, dusty mineral and tight structure. Those rusty mineral aromas give it away as Serralunga d'Alba.
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The 2017 Barolo Margheria is gorgeous. Open, perfumed aromatics are immediately alluring. On the palate, the 2017 is a dark, mysterious wine, with layers of flavor that continue to develop over time. Dark cherry, blood orange, spice, leather, iron and scorched earth add striking layers of nuance. The tannins are potent - we are in Serralunga after all - but the 2017 has so much to offer. It's a gorgeous Barolo to enjoy over the next two decades, maybe more.
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The 2008 Barolo Margheria opens with a sweet, inviting bouquet redolent of hard candy, flowers, mint and licorice. Deceptively medium in body, the Margheria packs quite a bit of punch, even if that isn't totally obvious at the outset. Layers of dark fruit flow through to a powerful, incisive finish laced with dried flowers and spices. The Margheria is notable for its intensity and textural depth. It is another super-classy wine from Azelia.
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The 2018 Barolo Margheria opens to a wide range of savory aromas with dark fruit, pressed rose, crushed stone and rusty nail. Those rusty or ferrous notes are typical of Nebbiolo wines from Serralunga d'Alba. The wine is tight and firm in texture with a polished and very linear style.
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The 2006 Barolo Margheria is totally Serralunga in its dark, vibrant fruit, violets, tar, iron, smoke and licorice. Endowed with tons of length and energy, the Margheria reveals notable complexity and a wiry, taut expression of fruit. Although impressive for its sheer power, my only wish is that the Margheria had a touch more depth to match its formidable structure. The wine's balance, though, is terrific.
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Margheria is the first MGA to be harvested at the Scavino estate. Chalk and red currants dominate the nose, enhanced by framboise sauvage and cinnamon, with camphor-like balsamic depth. The attack is full of sucrosity and silky tannins - very well extracted and handled but mostly a sign of careful canopy management in the vineyard in this complicated vintage. The tannins are dusty but ripe, the palate fiercely Nebbiolo in its muscularity with an anise, cherry kernel and watermelon finish sustained by moderate acidity. Possibly the alcohol here is a bit less integrated than other examples.
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Nice, spicy red-fruit character with a firm, medium-bodied palate that will need a year or two to soften. Good, if a little simple this year.
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The 2016 Barolo Margheria shows the natural weight and gravitas of Serralunga in its dark flavor profile and textural resonance. Black cherry, plum, lavender, spice, mint, chalk and bright saline notes are all laced throughout. Deceptive in its mid-weight structure, the 2016 possesses tremendous persistence and class to burn. Wilder suggestions of sage and lavender add savory top notes, while searing tannins punctuate the finish.
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Serralunga d'Alba. Just mid ruby. Minerally and earthy rather than fruity and with hints of raw meat. Fine, clayey and layered tannins woven into the supple, generous fruit. Very long and juicy and hugely attractive with proper long, complex tannins.
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