Yves Gras bases this wine on very old grenache growing in red clay at the center of his estate, blended with 20 percent mourvèdre and two percent syrah. Partially destemmed and macerated on the skins for two months, it’s a dark and brooding Gigondas, a liquid take on the shadow thrown by Les Dentilles, the mountain peaks that loom above the vineyards. But there’s also sun, in the form of red rays of fruit and ripe black olives, and in the sense of warm stone.
February 2014