A garnet color that’s similar to the 2018 in terms of its richness, the 1988 Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva has incredible aromas of raspberry leather and leaps from the glass with layered notes of leather, wild herbs, rosemary, crushed stones, and flint. On the palate, it’s medium-bodied, structured, and vibrant, with angular, bright acidity. The highly perfumed aromatics are fantastic, so the nose is the winner here, but it’s spritely on the palate, salty, and bright with elegant acidity. It might not be the most powerful wine, but it has a lot of pleasure to offer now and over the next several years.

February 2024