Chablis Mont Milieu 1er cru
2023
Domaine Billaud-Simon has been producing Chablis wines since 1815 and are known for their mineral driven, pure, elegant and fresh Chablis. The Domaine was created by Charles Louis Noël Billaud in 1815 following his return to his family’s land from the Napoleonic wars. His wines quickly garnered a reputation for quality wines. The Domaine’s vineyard holdings grew quite considerably in the 1930’s following the marriage of Charles Louis’ grandson, Jean Billaud to Renée Simon. Jean...
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The name ‘Mont de Milieu’ refers to the de¬fining characteristic of this hillside which previously marked a boundary between two points. On one side was the Chablis constituency (an area across which a Lord or town had the right to jurisdiction), at the time in the Champagne constituency, and on the other side was the Fleys constituency which fell under the Duchy of Burgundy. The 2.77 ha parcel is on Kimmeridgien clay-limestone.
The grapes are picked and sorted manually on a vibrating sorting table to retain only the healthiest fruit. The grapes are drained naturally before being pressed using a pneumatic press gently to extract the juices and conserve as much aroma as possible. Static cold settling of the musts for 12 to 24 hours in stainless steel vats to obtain a bright, clear juice. Alcoholic fermentation is followed by malolactic fermentation, both natural, in stainless steel vats. 14 to 16 months in stainless steel vats with, if necessary, some time spent in French oak barrels. The ageing process preserves freshness and minerality whilst bringing complexity and body to the wine. The wine is racked twice before being bottled at the end of Autumn.
Clear, bright hue with light green tinges. This 1er Cru reveals a remarkably rich aromatic profile with ripe citrus fruits and white flowers. The palate is rich and round with exceptional length.
A very youthful Mont de Milieu. Winemaker Olivier Bailly noted that if you want to drink this young, make sure it is decanted for at least an hour. Greenish tint in the glass, aromas of white peach and pear. A premier cru cut with vibrant acidity, finishing with some mineral and saline notes. They own 3ha here, ranging from the bottom to the top of the Mont de Milieu slope. Has a very bright future.
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This Mont de Milieu is an arresting wine on the initial attack, with robust aromas of grapefruit, quince and spice. The texture is ripe and powerful, with balanced acidity and enough extract to linger on the palate. The grapes come from 2.77ha of vines in this right-bank terroir; they are gently pressed as whole clusters and mainly fermented in cask. The wine is pleasant now but should open considerably with a bit of age and will likely drink well for years to come.
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There is an excellent balance between rich, honeyed notes and very crisp, clean acidity. Stony edge to the finish. This is approachable now but really needs several years. From four parcels, part of the blend is matured in barrel, the rest in tank.
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(from 4 different parcels of 35+ year old vines that total 2.77 ha; 20% old wood). Here too there is just enough wood influence lurking in the background of the vaguely exotic aromas of white peach, apricot and oyster shell to merit pointing out. There is impressive volume and mid-palate density to the larger-bodied and solidly powerful flavors that are rich to the point of opulence before concluding in a sappy and lingering finish where the only nit is a touch of warmth.
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