The 2018 Clos de Vougeot shows a bit of the heat and the concentration of the year: the harvest was nearly 20% down on 2017. Liger-Belair used the same techniques in the winery: 30% whole clusters, a three-week cuvaison, and aging over two winters in cask, half new. The result, however, is even darker and concentrated than the previous year – one might say almost slightly porty. Impressive if a bit monolithic with its super-ripe black fruits, yet there is still enough balance that it should be lovely with time.
June 2021