Reflecting highly concentrated but entirely healthy grapes harvested at 94 Oechsle, and a volume of just 3,000 liters from 2.5 acres in the prime Falkenberg lieu-dit, it’s not hard to understand why Constantin Richter presented this bottling last in his lineup of 2016 vintage Spätlesen. “If we had ‘gold capsule Spätlesen’,” he noted, “this would be one.” A headily ripe nose of Persian melon, mango and pineapple anticipates the flavors but not the degree of brightness, tang and animation exhibited on a creamy palate, a legacy of light berry desiccation having concentrated acids as well as sugars. The lingering finish is prominently sweet by estate standards but both luscious and refreshing.
January 2018